Shiitakes have feelings too

Shiitake, known as the fragrant mushroom, is no longer an ingredient found in just Asian cuisine. It is being used more and more in Western kitchens around the globe.

The versatile mushroom has been used by the Japanese and Chinese for both culinary and medicinal purposes for over 1000 years. In China, shiitakes or xiānggū were picked wild in the mountains and dried. The Japanese learned how to cultivate the mushrooms by placing them on dead logs.

These days, the rising popularity of the shiitake has meant its increased cultivation in many countries, giving cooks year-round access to its delectable flavour.

When buying fresh shiitakes, ensure that the flesh is firm and dry but not wrinkled. The caps should be fleshy and unblemished, with a distinct yet subtle aroma. Some shiitakes will naturally develop scoring on their caps. Don't be deterred by this as it is a good sign of a maturing mushroom.

When preparing shiitakes, gently remove the stems with a knife and rinse the caps very briefly in water (in and out). Never let the caps become water-logged. Alternatively, you can carefully wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth. A soggy shiitake is something to be avoided.

While doing 'research' on this popular little fungus, I came across a site belonging to the Lost Creek Shiitake Farm in Oklahoma. Their literature described the shiitake as a social and almost sentient being that "dislikes crabby people and negative, emotional people...they're not fond of cigarette smoke and may balk in their fruiting around smokers." Shiitakes also love a good thunder storm and tend to proliferate in a group setting...of other shiitakes that is.

Shiitakes are my kind of people. So to celebrate the shiitake's sociability and versatility, I made a shiitake, smoked bacon and asparagus pasta. The result was delicious, rich and yet pleasingly subtle.

 

Angel Hair Pasta with shiitakes, smoked bacon and asparagus
(Serves 4)

8 fresh shiitake
5 rashers of thinly sliced smoked bacon
10 stalks of asparagus
1/4 tsp of sea salt
1/4 tsp of freshly ground black pepper
1/4 tsp of chili flakes
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tbs of butter
1 tbs of olive oil
80ml of white wine
Angel Hair pasta
Parmesan Cheese to top

Method:

1. Remove the stalks from the shiitakes and wipe the caps with a damp cloth. Slice the caps and set aside.
2. Finely mince the garlic, and cut the asparagus into 3cm pieces.
3. Blanch the asparagus in some boiling water for about 4-5 minutes and then run under cold water.
4. Heat the olive oil in a fry pan and gently fry the bacon rashers for about 4 minutes or until they are a little crispy around the edges. Remove rashers from heat and then chop them into pieces when cooled. 
5. Next, bring some water to the boil and cook the pasta. We used fresh angel hair which took about 3-4 minutes to cook. Drain the pasta but keep about a cup of the water aside. 
6. Heat up the butter gently in the fry pan you used for the bacon. Add the garlic and chili flakes and stir on a medium heat for about 30 seconds.
7. Add the shiitakes and saute for about 4 minutes and then add the wine. Gently shake the pan to coat the mushrooms.
8. Add the asparagus and bacon to the pan and stir. Add salt and pepper. 
9. Finally, add the contents of the pan to the drained pasta and mix well. Add a tablespoon or two of the pasta water to the pasta if you need to.

Sprinkle with a little freshly grated parmesan and enjoy!      

Comments

[Patricia Scarpin]

This is just superb - love all the ingredients you've put together!

[newyorkdude]

This combination is a twice-a-month staple for us.

Our variations:

The mushrooms should be round around the edges. That's a sign they're still fresh.

In NY it's much easier to find Cremini and Portabella mushrooms (which are really the same thing). They work just as well as Shiitake.

Soba (buckwheat noodles) are our choice. The preparation is about the same as for angel hair noodles--or somen, which is a white noodle. Asians rinse noodles in cold water after draining off the boiling water. That's an extra step not necessary with Italian pasta.

We don't use bacon at all. This recipe works well without the bacon. If we want a meat-like taste, we add pan-fried smoked tofu--but that's a story in itself.

If wine isn't handy, fresh lemon juice will do.

Another sauce you can add at the end is Yakisoba Sauce. There are lots of brands. My personal preference is Bulldog. But I'll settle for some of the others.

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